Opening Tag

A place where I can openly indulge my megomania

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

Metolius Gear Review

This past weekend I got my dirty mits on some new items slated for this Spring and took them out Oregon's beloved dirt pile Smith Rock. 

Gatekeeper Belay Biner

I cant tell you how many times I've seen and experienced a cross loaded belay biner. A feat easily achieved whenever slack is introduced into the system. Especially prevalent when route setting or bolting new lines. Metolius's answer to this is the Gatekeeper, an easy to handle, lightweight belay/repel biner. Simple in design, but very well thought out.

Features I-Beam construction, which makes low on weight (2.46 oz), while retaining a great deal of strength (22KN from basket to basket). The spine has been widened towards the larger basket to prevent a GriGri from migrating onto the spine, which all but stops the dreaded spine-gate cross-load situation. The biner itself has a relatively narrow profile that allows it to sit nicely on a gear loop with a belay device and gloves attached.

MSRP - $17.95

Smith Rock. Home of the top rope.

Bravo Wire Gate Draw

At Smith Rock, there's more than a few routes that you can link together if you have the right set up. To me there's not much more enjoyable than setting up a monster 50 meter pitch and lower back to the ground. Unfortunately, the weight is always cumbersome. The new Bravo biner/draw really helps cut down on the weigh without sacrificing crucial ergonomics and safety.

Im quite used to clipping the full sized Inferno biner, so I was skeptical about using a smaller biner, fearing I would get my fingers caught. Thanks to a particularly smart design in the nose, this was not the case. They have enlarged the hood of the biner where the wire completes the oval, allowing the wire to seamlessly close. This combined with a low profile notch has made this biner exceptionally easy to clip. Like the Gatekeeper, this biner features I-Bean construction adding to its strength(24KN) and weight saving (2.5 oz/5in draw).

Yes, I brought my iPhone with me.

MSRP - $18.95

Speedster Rope Bag

Smith is filthy. So rope management and a good rope bag is crucial to the longevity of your equipment. This bag is what you'd expect in a bag. Tarp big enough for your rope. Carrying system. Method to tie off ends of rope. Etc. Where it stands out is its utility.

Often times I'll hike down to the crag, warm up, leave my main pack with the group, and head up to a project. Rather than hike everything with me, I can use this bag as a secondary essentials bag. 

I was able to pack my 100 meter 9.2, shoes, chalk bag, Tupac water bottle, belay device, and gloves easily in this.

Other item combination that fit in this are:

  • 5 pots & pans.
  • 1 70 meter 9.2 + everything I would need for a day of sport climbing.
  • 1 fat tabby cat.
  • 2 18 packs.
  • 12 pairs of La Sportiva Miuras.

MSRP - $46.95


  1. What can I say, Darrel the cat loves his wet cat food.

  2. Tupac isn't dead! Turns out he's making water bottles for Ryan Palo.